Snow Hill to the Peninsula: Shackleton’s Emperors with Paul Goldstein

Upon arrival in the vibrant Argentine capital, known for its European-style architecture, rich culture and lively neighborhoods, you are independently transferred to your included hotel.

After an early breakfast at the hotel, the group transfers to the airport to board our private charter flight to Ushuaia, at the southern tip of Argentina. Upon arrival, transfer from the airport to a central downtown location to explore quaint Ushuaia on your own before heading to the pier. After a late afternoon embarkation, sail along the historic Beagle Channel, which transects the Tierra del Fuego archipelago in the extreme southern part of South America. Embrace the air of anticipation as you depart, the next land you see will be the Antarctic.

The storied Drake Passage, the 500mi (800km) waterway between the southern tip of South America and Antarctica, is an adventure unto itself. Its position at the confluence of the Pacific, the Atlantic and the Southern oceans can mean either a turbulent or calm passing. While under the attentive care of our expert staff and expedition team, you have plenty of time to gaze out at the expansive ocean waters, photograph seabirds as they swoop around the ship, and get to know your Expedition Team and fellow travellers.

We begin our passage through Antarctic Sound. This stretch of water separates the northern tip of the peninsula from the Weddell Sea. This historic sound is notorious for being filled with massive ice chunks originating from the Filchner-Ronne Ice Shelf – have your cameras and binoculars ready. The onboard team teaches you everything about ice, as the Weddell Sea boasts the world’s most impressive floes and tabular icebergs. The captivating flat-topped icebergs you’ll see on this eastern side of the Peninsula are known to be exponentially bigger and more visually impressive than those observed off the western coast.



Onboard experts enrich your polar quest during daily presentations. You’ll hear what it was like a century ago for the polar heroes who embraced the unknown. Expect a fascinating deep-dive into the world of ice-dwelling emperor penguins.

The journey toward Snow Hill Island puts you in explorer mode as the captain and Expedition Leader keep you updated through weather briefings, as well as meteorological and sea ice condition reports. The thickness of ice determines how close Ultramarine can get to Snow Hill Island, at which point the ship’s twin-engine helicopters take over.Like summitting a mountain from base camp, parties set out from Ultramarine towards the emperor penguin colony. As experienced by all our guests who visited Snow Hill Island with us in November 2023, the adventure begins with an extended helicopter transfer that reveals a landscape of snow-capped peaks and apartment building-sized tabular icebergs. As seasoned polar explorers can attest, these mammoth, flat-topped icebergs will captivate you with their majesty. The colony itself is located on the sea ice off the south coast of Snow Hill Island, and we land as close to the penguins as possible, yet at a safe distance to avoid disturbing the birds. Upon landing, your party walks across the ice to the fabled colony. Your auditory senses will be on high alert: the non-stop Antarctic wind, the crunch of the ice beneath your feet, and, of course, the chatter of thousands of emperor penguins.On your guided walk to the colony, you may be surprised to find yourself walking next to paths in the snow carved by penguins that waddled by before. As with all our off-ship excursions, native wildlife and their habitat take priority. We do everything possible to minimise disturbance to their environment. The sound of the flightless birds gets louder as we march toward one of the rarest wildlife scenarios on the planet: the colony of 8,000 rarely seen emperor penguins. Our plan is to ensure that every guest visits the remote colony during the voyage, the possibility of an additional visit are dependent on conditions. The Expedition Team and special experts stay close so they can answer your questions and help you take it all in. You’ll observe how the emperors behave as a tightknit community, how they care for their young, with male and female adults sharing parental duties, and how they body surf across the ice in a way that can only be described as quirky yet efficient.While at base on Ultramarine, you can look forward to Zodiac cruising among the icebergs and kayaking. We also plan to offer each guest a heli-flightseeing adventure, included in the cost of the voyage, during this segment of the itinerary.Each day our polar experts, who include penguin scientists, glaciologists, biologists and polar historians, present on various aspects of emperor penguins and their behaviors, ice formations such as the breathtaking tabular icebergs visible from the deck of the ship, and the experiences of polar explorers who braved the Weddell Sea more than a century ago. Or you may, on one of the days, decide to take the polar plunge, or test your balance on a stand-up paddleboard. Or pamper yourself at Ultramarine’s Tundra Spa, the sauna with floor-to-ceiling windows, fitness room, or yoga space.However you spend your time immediately following your visit to the legendary colony, we invite you to take time to reflect on everything you’ve witnessed and appreciate that you are one of the few humans to have experienced the rare wildlife spectacle at Snow Hill.

The next stage of our itinerary focuses on the rarely visited east side of the Antarctic Peninsula, where few operators visit. We spend time each day in stunning locations that allow us to enjoy off-ship opportunities shaped by the weather. Our goal is to maximise your experience of Antarctic wildlife, ice and landscapes.Our time exploring the Antarctic Peninsula showcases the flexibility and technical prowess of our industry-leading expedition team, pilots and crew. They look for opportunities to experience Antarctica beyond the coast and over the expansive glacial terrain of the last great wilderness. Much of this is achieved on helicopter excursions, which are included in your trip. These heli-flightseeing experiences differ from the helicopter ride that transported you between the ship and the emperor penguin colony at Snow Hill Island. Helicopter flightseeing enables you to soar freely among the icy peaks of Antarctica while looking out over vast expanses of ice, rock, coast and sea.Within the eastern Antarctic Peninsula, our main settings for this venture are Antarctic Sound, Erebus and Terror Gulf, plus the northwestern Weddell Sea. As we sail though Antarctic Sound, pausing to view stunning fields of tabular icebergs, we set our sights on visiting Paulet Island in the Weddell Sea. This small, circular island is home to a large Adelie penguin colony. The iconic cone rising 1,158ft (353m) is a reminder that Paulet Island was once home to active volcanoes. In addition to penguins, you may be interested in visiting the historic hut built by members of the Swedish Antarctic Expedition of 1901-04. Shackleton was aware of this hut and of the provisions stored there. When he and his crew were forced to abandon the Endurance, Shackleton’s objective became clear: to reach the safety, shelter and supplies at Paulet Island. Alas, as history attests, the ice and current of the Weddell Sea had other plans.We visit two towering geological features: Madder Cliffs on Joinville Island and Brown Bluff on the most northerly tip of the Antarctic continent, where we plan to set foot. Brown Bluff is believed to be an exposed volcano that once erupted beneath the glacial ice, causing the lava to spread laterally and create the stunning geological layering that’s visible on the imposing 2,445ft (745m) bluff walls. The base of the bluffs is home to Adelie and gentoo penguin, which number in the thousands.During our standard excursion days, we aim to offer a variety of off-ship experiences tailored to the location and weather. These include Zodiac cruises, shore landings on islands and the continent, as well as our paddling excursions.Also featured in this portion of the itinerary: the James Ross Island archipelago, adjacent to Erebus and Terror Gulf, which is highly valued geologically. On these islands, we’ll find fossilized specimens, ventifacts (ancient rocks polished smooth over time by wind and grains of sand), and the remains of the KT Boundary, which marks the transition between the Cretaceous Period (dinosaurs and reptiles) and the Tertiary Period (mammals). Our goal is to provide opportunities for guests to see ventifacts up close, and to better appreciate the significance of wind erosion – by sand or ice particles – over long periods. Ventifacts provide valuable information about the climatic history and prevailing wind patterns of the region.Another highlight of the eastern side of the peninsula is Devil Island, marked by its twin towering cones of ash and hardened lava that emerge from a bay on the north shore of Vega Island. At low tide, grounded bergy bits and sea ice reveal the extraordinary visual formations on the underside of the ice – shapes uniquely sculpted by brine channels and ocean waves.Before returning across the Drake Passage, we intend to visit the wildlife-rich South Shetland Islands. As with any polar expedition, our team has devised multiple plans for our visit to this region. Our goal, however, is to set foot on Livingston Island, which showcases the most spectacular mountains of the South Shetland Islands, as well as the chinstrap penguin colonies along the rugged coast. The towering peaks you’ll see are the Tangra Mountains, Mount Friesland (5,578ft/1,700m), Bowles Ridge (2,697ft/822m), and Pliska Ridge (2,188ft/667m).Another fascinating landing option is Deception Island. In addition to waddling penguins and lounging seals, visitors can also see the rusting remnants of long-abandoned whaling operations on the beach. We hope to offer guests longer walks leading to breathtaking viewpoints on Deception Island. The stark contrast between the snow and dark volcanic sand – with geothermic steam along the shoreline – creates a uniquely atmospheric feel. Additionally, Deception Island is home to one of the most renowned chinstrap penguin colonies in the world. Estimates range from 50,000 to 70,000.

The journey back across the Drake Passage provides a final opportunity to enjoy the invigorating Southern Ocean air. Spend time on deck watching for seabirds and scouting for whales, enjoy presentations by your Expedition Team, and celebrate the experiences you’ve shared off the beaten track in remote Antarctica.

You arrive in Ushuaia in the morning and disembark after breakfast. The mandatory transfer package includes a tour of Tierra del Fuego National Park for a taste of Patagonia, after which you’ll transfer to the airport for the return group charter flight to Buenos Aires.